<?xml version="1.0"?>
<feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xml:lang="en">
	<id>https://nurdspace.nl/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Smokeyd</id>
	<title>NURDspace - User contributions [en]</title>
	<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="https://nurdspace.nl/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Smokeyd"/>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/Special:Contributions/Smokeyd"/>
	<updated>2026-04-20T00:08:39Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
	<generator>MediaWiki 1.39.4</generator>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3124</id>
		<title>Location</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3124"/>
		<updated>2013-07-09T11:11:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Have been poked */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Current ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We are located at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vadaring 80&lt;br /&gt;
6702 EB Wageningen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See: http://g.co/maps/p5vse&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== New ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So .. we are becoming homeless per 1-9-2013. This is a small list of leads we are poking;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Have been poked ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Organisation !! Poker !! Status/result&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| FMT beheer || buZz ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| University || FwD || Juiste persoon gevonden, nog geen reactie.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bewaakt&amp;amp;Bewoond || FwD || Hebben geen andere panden in Wageningen&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Alvast beheer || buZz ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Voorkomleegstand || buZz ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Cultuurmakelaar || buZz ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Jelle (old farm/practiseplace thingy) || buZz ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Mailinglist (own members, asked to look around and SPEAK UP) || buZz ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| general@hsnl Mailinglist || buZz ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| wurlug mailinglist || SmokeyD ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Activast = eigenaar oude SNS pand, panden agro business park, etc. || SmokeyD ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Woningstichting || FwD || gereageerd op [http://www.de-woningstichting.nl/1/Welkom-bij-de-Woningstichting/Content-Helpers/Woningbezit/Buurtseweg/Buurtseweg-3--D.html?highlight= Buurtseweg 3D], maar met algemene boodschap. Nog geen reactie.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Van Der Vorm vastgoed || FwD || Hebben alleen huizen, winkelpanden en garages. Geen korting of schappelijk tarief mogelijk.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| VBC = eigenaar huidige pand || FwD || Huidige unit voor € 460/mnd ex btw.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Interim Vastgoedbeheer || laafwerpen || Laafwerpen kent contactpersoon voor Wageningen en heeft al gehoord dat Diedenoort en Danone pand eventueel optie zijn. LA13 zit al vol.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Idealis || FwD || &amp;quot;We hebben helaas geen woonruimte voor jullie beschikbaar.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Pieter Roza (architect) || SmokeyD ||Hij gaat bij zijn bekenden in vastgoed/makelaar wereld rondvragen. Long shot maar we zien wel.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Ad Hoc || laafwerpen || Just former Halfords available for $too_expensive&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Citadel || laafwerpen || Nothing available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| HOD || laafwerpen || Only spaces available in Arnhem&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Still to poke ===&lt;br /&gt;
* http://nl.linkedin.com/in/ericlangendoen .. stichting broed en thingyplaats&lt;br /&gt;
* Robbert Kamphuis?&lt;br /&gt;
* Eigenaar Dreijen? Is dat nog de WUR, of een anti kraak club, of een vastgoed ontwikkelaar. Daar staat vast veel leeg nog (Is nog van WUR - FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* Binnen stuiteren op oude bodemkunde gebouw of LA13 (waar movie w een tijdje zat) en kijken of de anti kraak lui (via interim) ons aan ruimte willen helpen en een goed woordje doen voor ons bij Interim?&lt;br /&gt;
* wbvg&lt;br /&gt;
* gemeente&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Diedenoort ==&lt;br /&gt;
Via Interim (via laafwerpen) we can probably get a space in the former Diedenoort building. Some specs:&lt;br /&gt;
* Bigger than our current space&lt;br /&gt;
* 220eu/month rent&lt;br /&gt;
* Lots of power sockets&lt;br /&gt;
* No own entrance, but 24/7 accessible&lt;br /&gt;
* Located [https://www.google.nl/maps/preview#!q=Churchillweg+68%2C+6706+AD+Wageningen here]&lt;br /&gt;
* Patch panel in 19&amp;quot; rack on the 2nd floor, all rooms have their own UTP sockets&lt;br /&gt;
* We could put all our servers there&lt;br /&gt;
* No internet connection active, so we need to either move our BIT account of try to get SURFnet access&lt;br /&gt;
* Probably 7 to 10 other tenants (students) that we could supply internet access to, either wired or with our large collection of PoE access points&lt;br /&gt;
* We can start renting it &amp;quot;soon&amp;quot; (read: starting August)&lt;br /&gt;
* Unclear for how long we can rent it, but probably for quite a while as the [http://www.mouterijnoort.nl/dewoningen-plankaart.php 2nd phase of Mouterijnoort] hasn&#039;t even begun yet. The Diedenoort building is on the lot for the 3rd phase.&lt;br /&gt;
* No smoking inside, but shelter on the courtyard for smokers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Questions yet to be answered:&lt;br /&gt;
* Can we use other spaces temporarily (for events (lectures, workshops, presentations))?&lt;br /&gt;
* Can we rent other spaces permanently if we can afford it?&lt;br /&gt;
* Do&#039;s and don&#039;ts of the building&lt;br /&gt;
* Noise (regarding other tenants, neighbours)&lt;br /&gt;
* Lockable? (regarding valuable equipment)&lt;br /&gt;
* Lockable server room on 2nd floor? (regarding servers not being tampered with)&lt;br /&gt;
* AirCo in the server room?&lt;br /&gt;
* How many people are allowed for a second viewing? And when? (soon!)&lt;br /&gt;
* Power included in rent?&lt;br /&gt;
* How many groups are on the countless wall sockets? How many amps per group?&lt;br /&gt;
* Available power in server room?&lt;br /&gt;
* Cooking? BBQ? Deepfryer?&lt;br /&gt;
* Can we paint walls, drill in the wall etc, modifications to the space?&lt;br /&gt;
* Can we copy the key(s)? Can we play with the locks for automation?&lt;br /&gt;
* Room for tenants available? (read: buZz)&lt;br /&gt;
* Heating / cooling / ventilation?&lt;br /&gt;
* Is there a Fiber cable to the building, could we recycle it?&lt;br /&gt;
* Water connection / bathrooms?&lt;br /&gt;
* Garbage collection?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:P1050164.JPG|400px]][[File:P1050165.JPG|400px]][[File:P1050166.JPG|400px]][[File:P1050167.JPG|400px]][[File:P1050168.JPG|400px]][[File:P1050170.JPG|400px]][[File:P1050169.JPG|400px]][[File:P1050171.JPG|400px]][[File:P1050172.JPG|400px]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3099</id>
		<title>Location</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3099"/>
		<updated>2013-07-05T10:54:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Still to poke */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== New ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So .. we are becoming homeless per 1-9-2013. This is a small list of leads we are poking;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Have been poked ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* FMT beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* University - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Bewaakt&amp;amp;Bewoond - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Alvast beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Voorkomleegstand - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Cultuurmakelaar - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Jelle (old farm/practiseplace thingy) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Mailinglist (own members, asked to look around and SPEAK UP) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* general@hsnl Mailinglist - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* wurlug mailinglist - SmokeyD&lt;br /&gt;
* Activast = eigenaar oude SNS pand, panden agro business park, etc. (SmokeyD)&lt;br /&gt;
* Woningstichting (FwD, gereageerd op [http://www.de-woningstichting.nl/1/Welkom-bij-de-Woningstichting/Content-Helpers/Woningbezit/Buurtseweg/Buurtseweg-3--D.html?highlight= Buurtseweg 3D], maar met algemene boodschap)&lt;br /&gt;
* Van Der Vorm vastgoed (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* VBC = eigenaar huidige pand (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Still to poke ===&lt;br /&gt;
* http://nl.linkedin.com/in/ericlangendoen .. stichting broed en thingyplaats&lt;br /&gt;
* Idealis?&lt;br /&gt;
* Robbert Kamphuis?&lt;br /&gt;
* Eigenaar Dreijen? Is dat nog de WUR, of een anti kraak club, of een vastgoed ontwikkelaar. Daar staat vast veel leeg nog&lt;br /&gt;
* Binnen stuiteren op oude bodemkunde gebouw of LA13 (waar movie w een tijdje zat) en kijken of de anti kraak lui (via interim) ons aan ruimte willen helpen en een goed woordje doen voor ons bij Interim?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Old ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We are located at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vadaring 80&lt;br /&gt;
6702 EB Wageningen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See: http://g.co/maps/p5vse&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3090</id>
		<title>Location</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3090"/>
		<updated>2013-07-04T15:26:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Have been poked */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== New ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So .. we are becoming homeless per 1-9-2013. This is a small list of leads we are poking;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Have been poked ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* FMT beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* University - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Bewaakt&amp;amp;Bewoond - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Alvast beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Voorkomleegstand - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Cultuurmakelaar - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Jelle (old farm/practiseplace thingy) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Mailinglist (own members, asked to look around and SPEAK UP) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* general@hsnl Mailinglist - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* wurlug mailinglist - SmokeyD&lt;br /&gt;
* Activast = eigenaar oude SNS pand, panden agro business park, etc. (SmokeyD)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Still to poke ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Woningstichting (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* maybe Van Der Vorm vastgoed to ask for a garagebox? (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* http://nl.linkedin.com/in/ericlangendoen .. stichting broed en thingyplaats (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* VBC = eigenaar huidige pand (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Old ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We are located at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vadaring 80&lt;br /&gt;
6702 EB Wageningen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See: http://g.co/maps/p5vse&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3089</id>
		<title>Location</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3089"/>
		<updated>2013-07-04T15:26:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Still to poke */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== New ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So .. we are becoming homeless per 1-9-2013. This is a small list of leads we are poking;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Have been poked ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* FMT beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* University - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Bewaakt&amp;amp;Bewoond - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Alvast beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Voorkomleegstand - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Cultuurmakelaar - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Jelle (old farm/practiseplace thingy) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Mailinglist (own members, asked to look around and SPEAK UP) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* general@hsnl Mailinglist - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* wurlug mailinglist - SmokeyD&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Still to poke ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Woningstichting (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* maybe Van Der Vorm vastgoed to ask for a garagebox? (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* http://nl.linkedin.com/in/ericlangendoen .. stichting broed en thingyplaats (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* VBC = eigenaar huidige pand (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Old ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We are located at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vadaring 80&lt;br /&gt;
6702 EB Wageningen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See: http://g.co/maps/p5vse&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3088</id>
		<title>Location</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3088"/>
		<updated>2013-07-04T15:24:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Still to poke */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== New ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So .. we are becoming homeless per 1-9-2013. This is a small list of leads we are poking;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Have been poked ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* FMT beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* University - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Bewaakt&amp;amp;Bewoond - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Alvast beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Voorkomleegstand - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Cultuurmakelaar - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Jelle (old farm/practiseplace thingy) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Mailinglist (own members, asked to look around and SPEAK UP) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* general@hsnl Mailinglist - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* wurlug mailinglist - SmokeyD&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Still to poke ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Woningstichting (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* maybe Van Der Vorm vastgoed to ask for a garagebox? (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* http://nl.linkedin.com/in/ericlangendoen .. stichting broed en thingyplaats (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* VBC = eigenaar huidige pand (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* Activast = eigenaar oude SNS pand, panden agro business park, etc. (SmokeyD)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Old ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We are located at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vadaring 80&lt;br /&gt;
6702 EB Wageningen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See: http://g.co/maps/p5vse&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3087</id>
		<title>Location</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3087"/>
		<updated>2013-07-04T15:23:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Still to poke */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== New ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So .. we are becoming homeless per 1-9-2013. This is a small list of leads we are poking;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Have been poked ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* FMT beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* University - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Bewaakt&amp;amp;Bewoond - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Alvast beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Voorkomleegstand - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Cultuurmakelaar - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Jelle (old farm/practiseplace thingy) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Mailinglist (own members, asked to look around and SPEAK UP) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* general@hsnl Mailinglist - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* wurlug mailinglist - SmokeyD&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Still to poke ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Woningstichting (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* maybe Van Der Vorm vastgoed to ask for a garagebox? (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* http://nl.linkedin.com/in/ericlangendoen .. stichting broed en thingyplaats (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* VBC = eigenaar huidige pand (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* Activast = eigenaar SNS pand, panden agro business park, etc. (SmokeyD)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Old ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We are located at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vadaring 80&lt;br /&gt;
6702 EB Wageningen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See: http://g.co/maps/p5vse&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3086</id>
		<title>Location</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Location&amp;diff=3086"/>
		<updated>2013-07-04T14:33:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Have been poked */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== New ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So .. we are becoming homeless per 1-9-2013. This is a small list of leads we are poking;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Have been poked ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* FMT beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* University - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Bewaakt&amp;amp;Bewoond - FwD&lt;br /&gt;
* Alvast beheer - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Voorkomleegstand - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Cultuurmakelaar - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Jelle (old farm/practiseplace thingy) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* Mailinglist (own members, asked to look around and SPEAK UP) - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* general@hsnl Mailinglist - buZz&lt;br /&gt;
* wurlug mailinglist - SmokeyD&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Still to poke ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Woningstichting (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* maybe Van Der Vorm vastgoed to ask for a garagebox? (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* http://nl.linkedin.com/in/ericlangendoen .. stichting broed en thingyplaats (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
* VBC = eigenaar huidige pand (FwD)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Old ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We are located at:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vadaring 80&lt;br /&gt;
6702 EB Wageningen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See: http://g.co/maps/p5vse&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=ATtiny_ICs&amp;diff=2930</id>
		<title>ATtiny ICs</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=ATtiny_ICs&amp;diff=2930"/>
		<updated>2013-06-03T21:26:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The ATtiny&#039;s in the IC&#039; s drawer of the wooden cupboard are nice to program for many different uses.&lt;br /&gt;
Below is an example code (blink.c) that just blinks the pin op PB0 (pin 12) of an attiny2313.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a makefile that you can use to build the code, and flash it onto the chip. Wire the USBTinyISP onto the breadboard with the ATtiny. Apart from the USBTinyISP only the VCC and GND are needed on the ATTiny. Then put the blink.h in a folder, put the makefile in there as well and run &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 make all&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo make install&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And it should work. In the makefile the CLOCK variable specifies the frequency (so 8MHz below). The FUSES specify a bunch of things in the chip that are important (oa for the clock frequency, but others too). See http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc to calculate these fuse settings. Take the +65ms delay, divide clock by 8 internally and SPI program download enabled. That should give the proper fuses, and only requires you to specify if you need an internal or external crystal osc and which frequency.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 #include &amp;lt;avr/io.h&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 #define LED PB0&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 void delay_ms(uint16_t ms) {&lt;br /&gt;
     uint16_t delay_count = 1000000 / 17500;&lt;br /&gt;
     volatile uint16_t i;&lt;br /&gt;
     &lt;br /&gt;
     while (ms != 0) {&lt;br /&gt;
         for (i=0; i != delay_count; i++);&lt;br /&gt;
         ms--;&lt;br /&gt;
     }&lt;br /&gt;
 }&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 int main(void) {&lt;br /&gt;
     &lt;br /&gt;
     DDRB = (1&amp;lt;&amp;lt;LED);&lt;br /&gt;
     &lt;br /&gt;
     for(;;) {&lt;br /&gt;
         PORTB = (1&amp;lt;&amp;lt;LED);&lt;br /&gt;
         delay_ms(1000);&lt;br /&gt;
         PORTB = ~(1&amp;lt;&amp;lt;LED);&lt;br /&gt;
         delay_ms(1000);&lt;br /&gt;
     }&lt;br /&gt;
     &lt;br /&gt;
     return 0;&lt;br /&gt;
 }&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 # Name: Makefile&lt;br /&gt;
 # Author: &amp;lt;insert your name here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 # Copyright: &amp;lt;insert your copyright message here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 # License: &amp;lt;insert your license reference here&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 # This is a prototype Makefile. Modify it according to your needs.&lt;br /&gt;
 # You should at least check the settings for&lt;br /&gt;
 # DEVICE ....... The AVR device you compile for&lt;br /&gt;
 # CLOCK ........ Target AVR clock rate in Hertz&lt;br /&gt;
 # OBJECTS ...... The object files created from your source files. This list is&lt;br /&gt;
 #                usually the same as the list of source files with suffix &amp;quot;.o&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
 # PROGRAMMER ... Options to avrdude which define the hardware you use for&lt;br /&gt;
 #                uploading to the AVR and the interface where this hardware&lt;br /&gt;
 #                is connected. We recommend that you leave it undefined and&lt;br /&gt;
 #                add settings like this to your ~/.avrduderc file:&lt;br /&gt;
 #                   default_programmer = &amp;quot;stk500v2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
 #                   default_serial = &amp;quot;avrdoper&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
 # FUSES ........ Parameters for avrdude to flash the fuses appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 DEVICE     = attiny2313&lt;br /&gt;
 CLOCK      = 8000000&lt;br /&gt;
 PROGRAMMER = -c usbtiny -p attiny2313&lt;br /&gt;
 OBJECTS    = blink.o&lt;br /&gt;
 FUSES      = -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U lfuse:w:0x64:m&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 # For computing fuse byte values for other devices and options see&lt;br /&gt;
 # the fuse bit calculator at http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc/&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 # Tune the lines below only if you know what you are doing:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 AVRDUDE = avrdude $(PROGRAMMER) -p $(DEVICE)&lt;br /&gt;
 COMPILE = avr-gcc -Wall -Os -DF_CPU=$(CLOCK) -mmcu=$(DEVICE)&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 # symbolic targets:&lt;br /&gt;
 all:	main.hex&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 .c.o:&lt;br /&gt;
 	$(COMPILE) -c $&amp;lt; -o $@&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 .S.o:&lt;br /&gt;
 	$(COMPILE) -x assembler-with-cpp -c $&amp;lt; -o $@&lt;br /&gt;
 # &amp;quot;-x assembler-with-cpp&amp;quot; should not be necessary since this is the default&lt;br /&gt;
 # file type for the .S (with capital S) extension. However, upper case&lt;br /&gt;
 # characters are not always preserved on Windows. To ensure WinAVR&lt;br /&gt;
 # compatibility define the file type manually.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 .c.s:&lt;br /&gt;
 	$(COMPILE) -S $&amp;lt; -o $@&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 flash:	all&lt;br /&gt;
 	$(AVRDUDE) -U flash:w:main.hex:i&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 fuse:&lt;br /&gt;
 	$(AVRDUDE) $(FUSES)&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 # Xcode uses the Makefile targets &amp;quot;&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;clean&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;install&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
 install: flash fuse&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 # if you use a bootloader, change the command below appropriately:&lt;br /&gt;
 load: all&lt;br /&gt;
 	bootloadHID main.hex&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 clean:&lt;br /&gt;
 	rm -f main.hex main.elf $(OBJECTS)&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 # file targets:&lt;br /&gt;
 main.elf: $(OBJECTS)&lt;br /&gt;
 	$(COMPILE) -o main.elf $(OBJECTS)&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 main.hex: main.elf&lt;br /&gt;
 	rm -f main.hex&lt;br /&gt;
 	avr-objcopy -j .text -j .data -O ihex main.elf main.hex&lt;br /&gt;
 	avr-size --format=avr --mcu=$(DEVICE) main.elf&lt;br /&gt;
 # If you have an EEPROM section, you must also create a hex file for the&lt;br /&gt;
 # EEPROM and add it to the &amp;quot;flash&amp;quot; target.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 # Targets for code debugging and analysis:&lt;br /&gt;
 disasm:	main.elf&lt;br /&gt;
 	avr-objdump -d main.elf&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 cpp:&lt;br /&gt;
 	$(COMPILE) -E main.c&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=ATtiny_ICs&amp;diff=2929</id>
		<title>ATtiny ICs</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=ATtiny_ICs&amp;diff=2929"/>
		<updated>2013-06-03T20:58:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: Created page with &amp;quot;{{Inventory |InventoryOwner=Space |InventoryStatus=Working |InventoryLocation=houte ladenkastje IC lade }}&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Working&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryLocation=houte ladenkastje IC lade&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=User:Smokeyd&amp;diff=2926</id>
		<title>User:Smokeyd</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=User:Smokeyd&amp;diff=2926"/>
		<updated>2013-06-03T18:02:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Members&lt;br /&gt;
|nickname=SmokeyD&lt;br /&gt;
|Memberstatus=member&lt;br /&gt;
|email=dolfandringa@gmail.com&lt;br /&gt;
|Project=Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer, Arduino on a breadboard, Barcode Bar, Nurduino, Nes to usb, &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
interests:  Linux, Python, Postgresql, OS Geo (Foss4G), JQuery, &amp;quot;Iedereen kan Solderen&amp;quot; (je weet wel, met van die nummertjes die je kunt inkleuren maar dan voor een soldeerbout)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2486</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2486"/>
		<updated>2013-04-25T15:51:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Nurduino&#039;s are now for sale! ==&lt;br /&gt;
The whole kit, including the CYMW6935, is for sale for €45. If you are not interested in the CYWM6935 board (although we think it is a nice project to play around with), you can buy the nurduino without the CYWM6935 fo €20.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are interested, please let us know on #nurds on irc.oftc.net, or send me an email on dolfandringa (with our good friends of) gmail.com.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 IC!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The arsa software which reads the data from the nurduino from usb and displays it on a computer. See below for installation details.&lt;br /&gt;
* java jre&lt;br /&gt;
* librxtx-java&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the IC with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the IC ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the ic. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software (see below). The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Arsa software ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Arsa (arduino radio spectrum analyser) is a java application that reads the usb port data from the Nurduino and displays a bar graph with the signal strenght. It displays both the maximum since you started it, and the current signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can download the most recent version on [http://github.com/dolfandringa/arsa/tree/master/target]. Download the arsa-&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;-jar-with-dependencies.jar file. You can start it with java. Currently it only works on Linux and assumes the Nurduino is available as /dev/ttyUSB0 (default on Debian and it&#039;s derivatives like Ubuntu). It also requires the librxtxSerial.so.&lt;br /&gt;
You can start the file (assuming you have java and librxtx-java installed) with:&lt;br /&gt;
 LD_LIBRARY_PATH=/usr/lib/jni/ java -jar arsa-&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;-jar-with-dependencies.jar&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2485</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2485"/>
		<updated>2013-04-25T15:44:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Kit components */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 IC!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The arsa software which reads the data from the nurduino from usb and displays it on a computer. See below for installation details.&lt;br /&gt;
* java jre&lt;br /&gt;
* librxtx-java&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the IC with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the IC ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the ic. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software (see below). The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Arsa software ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Arsa (arduino radio spectrum analyser) is a java application that reads the usb port data from the Nurduino and displays a bar graph with the signal strenght. It displays both the maximum since you started it, and the current signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can download the most recent version on [http://github.com/dolfandringa/arsa/tree/master/target]. Download the arsa-&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;-jar-with-dependencies.jar file. You can start it with java. Currently it only works on Linux and assumes the Nurduino is available as /dev/ttyUSB0 (default on Debian and it&#039;s derivatives like Ubuntu). It also requires the librxtxSerial.so.&lt;br /&gt;
You can start the file (assuming you have java and librxtx-java installed) with:&lt;br /&gt;
 LD_LIBRARY_PATH=/usr/lib/jni/ java -jar arsa-&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;-jar-with-dependencies.jar&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2452</id>
		<title>Postgresql.vm.nurd.space</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2452"/>
		<updated>2013-04-23T18:43:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* postgres.nurdspace.lan */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Live&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=postgresql.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryLocation=Proxmox2&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
= postgresql.nurdspace.lan =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a [http://www.postgresql.org PostgreSQL] server.&lt;br /&gt;
For documentation refer to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/9.1/interactive/index.html]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine has ldap authentication enabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just a few pointers about creating databases and authentication:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are logged in on the shell of a postgres machine, postgresql normally uses [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-methods.html#AUTH-IDENT Ident authentication]. This means that starting using postgresql command-line tools, logs you in as the postgresql user with the same name as your shell user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To log in to the postgresql command-line tool with the postgresql equivalent of the root user (called postgres), execute&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By default you log-in to the database with the same name as your username. To log-in to a different database do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql -d &amp;lt;dbname&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Databases and users can be created with normal command-line tools. To create a user and database owned by it, do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createuser -P &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createdb -U UTF8 -T template0 -O &amp;lt;username&amp;gt; &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is best to create databases with the same name as the owner. This is due to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-pg-hba-conf.html pg_hba.conf]. This file (in /etc/postgres/&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;/main/), defines which user is allowed to log-in to which database, from which host and with which method.&lt;br /&gt;
By default, postgres allows the postgres user to log into any database, and users only from localhost into databases with the same name as their username when password authentication is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you need username/password authentication from other hosts, add a line to pg_hba.conf, allowing it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2450</id>
		<title>Postgresql.vm.nurd.space</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2450"/>
		<updated>2013-04-23T18:42:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: SmokeyD moved page Postgres.nurdspace.lan to Postgresql.nurdspace.lan: hostname wrong&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Live&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=postgresql.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryLocation=Proxmox2&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
= postgres.nurdspace.lan =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a [http://www.postgresql.org PostgreSQL] server.&lt;br /&gt;
For documentation refer to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/9.1/interactive/index.html]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine has ldap authentication enabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just a few pointers about creating databases and authentication:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are logged in on the shell of a postgres machine, postgresql normally uses [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-methods.html#AUTH-IDENT Ident authentication]. This means that starting using postgresql command-line tools, logs you in as the postgresql user with the same name as your shell user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To log in to the postgresql command-line tool with the postgresql equivalent of the root user (called postgres), execute&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By default you log-in to the database with the same name as your username. To log-in to a different database do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql -d &amp;lt;dbname&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Databases and users can be created with normal command-line tools. To create a user and database owned by it, do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createuser -P &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createdb -U UTF8 -T template0 -O &amp;lt;username&amp;gt; &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is best to create databases with the same name as the owner. This is due to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-pg-hba-conf.html pg_hba.conf]. This file (in /etc/postgres/&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;/main/), defines which user is allowed to log-in to which database, from which host and with which method.&lt;br /&gt;
By default, postgres allows the postgres user to log into any database, and users only from localhost into databases with the same name as their username when password authentication is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you need username/password authentication from other hosts, add a line to pg_hba.conf, allowing it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2449</id>
		<title>Postgresql.vm.nurd.space</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2449"/>
		<updated>2013-04-23T18:38:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Live&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=postgresql.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryLocation=Proxmox2&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
= postgres.nurdspace.lan =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a [http://www.postgresql.org PostgreSQL] server.&lt;br /&gt;
For documentation refer to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/9.1/interactive/index.html]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine has ldap authentication enabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just a few pointers about creating databases and authentication:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are logged in on the shell of a postgres machine, postgresql normally uses [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-methods.html#AUTH-IDENT Ident authentication]. This means that starting using postgresql command-line tools, logs you in as the postgresql user with the same name as your shell user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To log in to the postgresql command-line tool with the postgresql equivalent of the root user (called postgres), execute&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By default you log-in to the database with the same name as your username. To log-in to a different database do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql -d &amp;lt;dbname&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Databases and users can be created with normal command-line tools. To create a user and database owned by it, do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createuser -P &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createdb -U UTF8 -T template0 -O &amp;lt;username&amp;gt; &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is best to create databases with the same name as the owner. This is due to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-pg-hba-conf.html pg_hba.conf]. This file (in /etc/postgres/&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;/main/), defines which user is allowed to log-in to which database, from which host and with which method.&lt;br /&gt;
By default, postgres allows the postgres user to log into any database, and users only from localhost into databases with the same name as their username when password authentication is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you need username/password authentication from other hosts, add a line to pg_hba.conf, allowing it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2308</id>
		<title>Postgresql.vm.nurd.space</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2308"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T11:08:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Live&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=postgres.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
= postgres.nurdspace.lan =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a [http://www.postgresql.org PostgreSQL] server.&lt;br /&gt;
For documentation refer to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/9.1/interactive/index.html]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just a few pointers about creating databases and authentication:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are logged in on the shell of a postgres machine, postgresql normally uses [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-methods.html#AUTH-IDENT Ident authentication]. This means that starting using postgresql command-line tools, logs you in as the postgresql user with the same name as your shell user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To log in to the postgresql command-line tool with the postgresql equivalent of the root user (called postgres), execute&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By default you log-in to the database with the same name as your username. To log-in to a different database do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql -d &amp;lt;dbname&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Databases and users can be created with normal command-line tools. To create a user and database owned by it, do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createuser -P &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createdb -U UTF8 -T template0 -O &amp;lt;username&amp;gt; &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is best to create databases with the same name as the owner. This is due to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-pg-hba-conf.html pg_hba.conf]. This file (in /etc/postgres/&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;/main/), defines which user is allowed to log-in to which database, from which host and with which method.&lt;br /&gt;
By default, postgres allows the postgres user to log into any database, and users only from localhost into databases with the same name as their username when password authentication is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you need username/password authentication from other hosts, add a line to pg_hba.conf, allowing it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2307</id>
		<title>Postgresql.vm.nurd.space</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2307"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T11:08:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=postgres.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
= postgres.nurdspace.lan =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a [http://www.postgresql.org PostgreSQL] server.&lt;br /&gt;
For documentation refer to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/9.1/interactive/index.html]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just a few pointers about creating databases and authentication:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are logged in on the shell of a postgres machine, postgresql normally uses [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-methods.html#AUTH-IDENT Ident authentication]. This means that starting using postgresql command-line tools, logs you in as the postgresql user with the same name as your shell user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To log in to the postgresql command-line tool with the postgresql equivalent of the root user (called postgres), execute&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By default you log-in to the database with the same name as your username. To log-in to a different database do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql -d &amp;lt;dbname&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Databases and users can be created with normal command-line tools. To create a user and database owned by it, do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createuser -P &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createdb -U UTF8 -T template0 -O &amp;lt;username&amp;gt; &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is best to create databases with the same name as the owner. This is due to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-pg-hba-conf.html pg_hba.conf]. This file (in /etc/postgres/&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;/main/), defines which user is allowed to log-in to which database, from which host and with which method.&lt;br /&gt;
By default, postgres allows the postgres user to log into any database, and users only from localhost into databases with the same name as their username when password authentication is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you need username/password authentication from other hosts, add a line to pg_hba.conf, allowing it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2306</id>
		<title>Postgresql.vm.nurd.space</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Postgresql.vm.nurd.space&amp;diff=2306"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T11:07:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: Created page with &amp;quot;{{Inventory |InventoryOwner=Space |InventoryHostname=postgres.nurdspace.lan }} = postgres.nurdspace.lan =  This is a [http://www.postgresql.org PostgreSQL] server. For documen...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=postgres.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
= postgres.nurdspace.lan =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a [http://www.postgresql.org PostgreSQL] server.&lt;br /&gt;
For documentation refer to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/9.1/interactive/index.html]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just a few pointers about creating databases and authentication:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are logged in on the shell of a postgres machine, postgresql normally uses [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-methods.html#AUTH-IDENT Ident authentication]. This means that starting using postgresql command-line tools, logs you in as the postgresql user with the same name as your shell user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To log in to the postgresql command-line tool with the postgresql equivalent of the root user (called postgres), execute&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By default you log-in to the database with the same name as your username. To log-in to a different database do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres psql -d &amp;lt;dbname&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Databases and users can be created with normal command-line tools. To create a user and database owned by it, do:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createuser -P &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 sudo -u postgres createdb -U UTF8 -T template0 -O &amp;lt;username&amp;gt; &amp;lt;username&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is best to create databases with the same name as the owner. This is due to [http://www.postgresql.org/docs/current/static/auth-pg-hba-conf.html pg_hba.conf]. This file (in /etc/postgres/&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;/main/), defines which user is allowed to log-in to which database, from which host and with which method.&lt;br /&gt;
By default, postgres allows the postgres user to log into any database, and users only from localhost into databases with the same name as their username when password authentication is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you need username/password authentication from other hosts, add a line to pg_hba.conf, allowing it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Proxmox1&amp;diff=2303</id>
		<title>Proxmox1</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Proxmox1&amp;diff=2303"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T10:48:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Broken&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=proxmox1.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
We&#039;ve put together a 2nd version of [[NURDServer]]. This version features:&lt;br /&gt;
* 19&amp;quot; 4U case&lt;br /&gt;
* A nice spot in the [[19%22_rack]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Proxmox for VM&#039;s&lt;br /&gt;
* You can reach the webinterface on https://proxmox1.nurdspace.lan:8006/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Specs =&lt;br /&gt;
* Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E6550  @ 2.33GHz&lt;br /&gt;
* MemTotal: 4043164 kB&lt;br /&gt;
* 200gb 2.5&amp;quot; 5400rpm sys disk&lt;br /&gt;
* Proxmox 2.3&lt;br /&gt;
* 4x 750gb sata in raid5&lt;br /&gt;
* 4x 250gb pata in raid5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= VM&#039;s =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[NURDServices]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= To do =&lt;br /&gt;
* Move content of 4x250gb to 4x750gb raid&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove 4x250gb from the case and insert 4 bigger disks for a new raid&lt;br /&gt;
* Install proxmox on future Dell 1u box, migrate VM&#039;s there&lt;br /&gt;
* Use NURDserver v2 case just for storage&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;lt;s&amp;gt;Migrate DNS (bind)&amp;lt;/s&amp;gt; BAM jonguh&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Proxmox1&amp;diff=2302</id>
		<title>Proxmox1</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Proxmox1&amp;diff=2302"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T10:38:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* VM&amp;#039;s */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Broken&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=proxmox1.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
We&#039;ve put together a 2nd version of [[NURDServer]]. This version features:&lt;br /&gt;
* 19&amp;quot; 4U case&lt;br /&gt;
* A nice spot in the [[19%22_rack]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Proxmox for VM&#039;s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Specs =&lt;br /&gt;
* Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E6550  @ 2.33GHz&lt;br /&gt;
* MemTotal: 4043164 kB&lt;br /&gt;
* 200gb 2.5&amp;quot; 5400rpm sys disk&lt;br /&gt;
* Proxmox 2.3&lt;br /&gt;
* 4x 750gb sata in raid5&lt;br /&gt;
* 4x 250gb pata in raid5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= VM&#039;s =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[NURDServices]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= To do =&lt;br /&gt;
* Move content of 4x250gb to 4x750gb raid&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove 4x250gb from the case and insert 4 bigger disks for a new raid&lt;br /&gt;
* Install proxmox on future Dell 1u box, migrate VM&#039;s there&lt;br /&gt;
* Use NURDserver v2 case just for storage&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;lt;s&amp;gt;Migrate DNS (bind)&amp;lt;/s&amp;gt; BAM jonguh&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=NURDServices&amp;diff=2301</id>
		<title>NURDServices</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=NURDServices&amp;diff=2301"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T10:37:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* nurdservices */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Live&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=nurdservices.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
= NURDservices =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
VM op [[NURDserver_v2|proxmox1.nurdspace.lan]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Running services ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Slapd ([[LDAP]] for [[Spacenet]], users on workstations and other future services)&lt;br /&gt;
* DHCP&lt;br /&gt;
* FusionDirectory&lt;br /&gt;
* NFS (for homedirs)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[HARKboot]] (netboot)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=NURDServices&amp;diff=2300</id>
		<title>NURDServices</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=NURDServices&amp;diff=2300"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T10:37:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: Created page with &amp;quot;{{Inventory |InventoryOwner=Space |InventoryStatus=Live |InventoryHostname=nurdservices.nurdspace.lan }} = nurdservices =  VM op proxmox1.nurdspace.lan  == R...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Live&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=nurdservices.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
= nurdservices =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
VM op [[NURDserver_v2|proxmox1.nurdspace.lan]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Running services ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Slapd ([[LDAP]] for [[Spacenet]], users on workstations and other future services)&lt;br /&gt;
* DHCP&lt;br /&gt;
* FusionDirectory&lt;br /&gt;
* NFS (for homedirs)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[HARKboot]] (netboot)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Proxmox1&amp;diff=2299</id>
		<title>Proxmox1</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Proxmox1&amp;diff=2299"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T10:35:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Broken&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryHostname=proxmox1.nurdspace.lan&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
We&#039;ve put together a 2nd version of [[NURDServer]]. This version features:&lt;br /&gt;
* 19&amp;quot; 4U case&lt;br /&gt;
* A nice spot in the [[19%22_rack]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Proxmox for VM&#039;s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Specs =&lt;br /&gt;
* Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E6550  @ 2.33GHz&lt;br /&gt;
* MemTotal: 4043164 kB&lt;br /&gt;
* 200gb 2.5&amp;quot; 5400rpm sys disk&lt;br /&gt;
* Proxmox 2.3&lt;br /&gt;
* 4x 750gb sata in raid5&lt;br /&gt;
* 4x 250gb pata in raid5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= VM&#039;s =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[NURDservices]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= To do =&lt;br /&gt;
* Move content of 4x250gb to 4x750gb raid&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove 4x250gb from the case and insert 4 bigger disks for a new raid&lt;br /&gt;
* Install proxmox on future Dell 1u box, migrate VM&#039;s there&lt;br /&gt;
* Use NURDserver v2 case just for storage&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;lt;s&amp;gt;Migrate DNS (bind)&amp;lt;/s&amp;gt; BAM jonguh&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Infra&amp;diff=2298</id>
		<title>Infra</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Infra&amp;diff=2298"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T10:33:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Schematic */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Schematic ==&lt;br /&gt;
The image is an image map. Click the machines to get their individual pages.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;imagemap&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Image:NURDspace_netwerk.png|600px|Netwerkkaart&lt;br /&gt;
rect 710 449 804 577 [[NURDServer]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 611 455 707 571 [[SpaceCam]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 531 454 601 566 [[Dell_Optiplex_GX270|VJdeb]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 535 173 624 309 [[Swampcastle]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 442 173 536 294 [[Buffalo]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 365 169 439 283 [[Nexia_PM]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 14 364 116 475 [[Dockstar]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 136 365 207 472 [[LANbox]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 123 484 215 603 [[Dmxlampen]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 1 478 111 581 [[Infra#Printing|HP Deskjet 5740]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 851 450 929 542 [[Gamepc]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 911 0 1016 141 [[Nurdspace.nl]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 619 84 716 173 [[Cisco800series]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 33 23 122 150 [[E4200]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 14 152 133 273 [[WRT54GSv4]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 246 161 353 294 [[NURDserver_v2|proxmox1]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 501 595 637 706 [[PrinterPC]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 391 587 478 697 [[3D_Printer_0]]&lt;br /&gt;
default [[File:NURDspace_netwerk.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
desc none&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/imagemap&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Which hosts are online? ==&lt;br /&gt;
Below is an iframe showing all responding hosts. It might take a few secs to load.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#widget:Iframe&lt;br /&gt;
|url=http://space.nurdspace.nl/pingscan.php&lt;br /&gt;
|height=400&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
== WiFi ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Spacenet]] on the [[E4200]] (SSID&#039;s SpaceNet-2.4 and SpaceNet-5)&lt;br /&gt;
* NURDspace-2.4 on the [[WRT54GSv4]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both routers are in bridged mode, so they offer full functionality to access the dockstar for mpd control etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Web ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Wiki]]&lt;br /&gt;
** Hosting ([[User:The_Niz|Niz]] and internals [[User:The_Niz|Niz]]/[[User:buZz|buZz]])&lt;br /&gt;
* Mail&lt;br /&gt;
** Mailinglist ([[User:r3boot|r3boot]]) http://lists.nurdspace.nl/, nurds [at] nurdspace.nl&lt;br /&gt;
** Mail aliases @nurdspace.nl ([[User:r3boot|r3boot]])&lt;br /&gt;
* Domain nurdspace.nl ([[User:The_Niz|The_Niz]] for DNS requests)&lt;br /&gt;
* Twitter [https://twitter.com/NURDspace @NURDspace] ([[User:Spider|Spider]], but [[User:FwD|FwD]] guessed the password too)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Network ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 48p gbit 3Com switch ([[User:R3boot|r3boot]])&lt;br /&gt;
* Intel Bladecenter with 14 blades; dual-xeons, 2~4GB ram ([[User:R3boot|r3boot]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Environment ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Multi-loop alarm central with keypad and a red flashing alarm light (no loop components)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Printing ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you are at the NURDspace network you can print @ the [[Dockstar]]&lt;br /&gt;
* socket://dockstar.nurdspace.lan:9100.&lt;br /&gt;
* Model HP Deskjet 5740.&lt;br /&gt;
* Under linux you can use hpijs driver for Deskjet 5700, Android&#039;s Printbot app can also be used&lt;br /&gt;
* Use AppSocket/HP JetDirect&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is now also a networked Brother HL-1470N thanks to Psy0rz&lt;br /&gt;
* socket://192.168.1.166:9100&lt;br /&gt;
* should just autodetect in cups :P&lt;br /&gt;
* Some problem in paper feed :&amp;lt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Services ==&lt;br /&gt;
* MPD running on [[Dockstar]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Subversion running on [[NURDServer]]. Repository &#039;nurdspace&#039; externally available on svn://nurdspace.tk/nurdspace or internally on svn://nurdserver/nurdspace&lt;br /&gt;
* Proxmox virtualisation on [[NURDserver_v2]] and [[Dell_PowerEdge_R200_Server]]&lt;br /&gt;
* LDAP and NFS homedirs on [[NURDserver_v2#nurdservices|nurdservices]].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Infra&amp;diff=2297</id>
		<title>Infra</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Infra&amp;diff=2297"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T10:15:40Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Schematic */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Schematic ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;imagemap&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Image:NURDspace_netwerk.png|600px|Netwerkkaart&lt;br /&gt;
rect 710 449 804 577 [[NURDServer]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 611 455 707 571 [[SpaceCam]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 531 454 601 566 [[Dell_Optiplex_GX270|VJdeb]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 535 173 624 309 [[Swampcastle]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 442 173 536 294 [[Buffalo]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 365 169 439 283 [[Nexia_PM]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 14 364 116 475 [[Dockstar]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 136 365 207 472 [[LANbox]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 123 484 215 603 [[Dmxlampen]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 1 478 111 581 [[Infra#Printing|HP Deskjet 5740]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 851 450 929 542 [[Gamepc]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 911 0 1016 141 [[Nurdspace.nl]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 619 84 716 173 [[Cisco800series]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 33 23 122 150 [[E4200]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 14 152 133 273 [[WRT54GSv4]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 246 161 353 294 [[NURDserver_v2|proxmox1]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 501 595 637 706 [[PrinterPC]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 391 587 478 697 [[3D_Printer_0]]&lt;br /&gt;
default [[File:NURDspace_netwerk.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
desc none&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/imagemap&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Which hosts are online? ==&lt;br /&gt;
Below is an iframe showing all responding hosts. It might take a few secs to load.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#widget:Iframe&lt;br /&gt;
|url=http://space.nurdspace.nl/pingscan.php&lt;br /&gt;
|height=400&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
== WiFi ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Spacenet]] on the [[E4200]] (SSID&#039;s SpaceNet-2.4 and SpaceNet-5)&lt;br /&gt;
* NURDspace-2.4 on the [[WRT54GSv4]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both routers are in bridged mode, so they offer full functionality to access the dockstar for mpd control etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Web ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Wiki]]&lt;br /&gt;
** Hosting ([[User:The_Niz|Niz]] and internals [[User:The_Niz|Niz]]/[[User:buZz|buZz]])&lt;br /&gt;
* Mail&lt;br /&gt;
** Mailinglist ([[User:r3boot|r3boot]]) http://lists.nurdspace.nl/, nurds [at] nurdspace.nl&lt;br /&gt;
** Mail aliases @nurdspace.nl ([[User:r3boot|r3boot]])&lt;br /&gt;
* Domain nurdspace.nl ([[User:The_Niz|The_Niz]] for DNS requests)&lt;br /&gt;
* Twitter [https://twitter.com/NURDspace @NURDspace] ([[User:Spider|Spider]], but [[User:FwD|FwD]] guessed the password too)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Network ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 48p gbit 3Com switch ([[User:R3boot|r3boot]])&lt;br /&gt;
* Intel Bladecenter with 14 blades; dual-xeons, 2~4GB ram ([[User:R3boot|r3boot]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Environment ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Multi-loop alarm central with keypad and a red flashing alarm light (no loop components)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Printing ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you are at the NURDspace network you can print @ the [[Dockstar]]&lt;br /&gt;
* socket://dockstar.nurdspace.lan:9100.&lt;br /&gt;
* Model HP Deskjet 5740.&lt;br /&gt;
* Under linux you can use hpijs driver for Deskjet 5700, Android&#039;s Printbot app can also be used&lt;br /&gt;
* Use AppSocket/HP JetDirect&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is now also a networked Brother HL-1470N thanks to Psy0rz&lt;br /&gt;
* socket://192.168.1.166:9100&lt;br /&gt;
* should just autodetect in cups :P&lt;br /&gt;
* Some problem in paper feed :&amp;lt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Services ==&lt;br /&gt;
* MPD running on [[Dockstar]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Subversion running on [[NURDServer]]. Repository &#039;nurdspace&#039; externally available on svn://nurdspace.tk/nurdspace or internally on svn://nurdserver/nurdspace&lt;br /&gt;
* Proxmox virtualisation on [[NURDserver_v2]] and [[Dell_PowerEdge_R200_Server]]&lt;br /&gt;
* LDAP and NFS homedirs on [[NURDserver_v2#nurdservices|nurdservices]].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:NURDspace_netwerk.png&amp;diff=2296</id>
		<title>File:NURDspace netwerk.png</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:NURDspace_netwerk.png&amp;diff=2296"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T10:03:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: SmokeyD uploaded a new version of &amp;amp;quot;File:NURDspace netwerk.png&amp;amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;An MS Visio scheme of the network in NURDspace. Incomplete for now, and probably always will be as the network is ever changing.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Infra&amp;diff=2295</id>
		<title>Infra</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Infra&amp;diff=2295"/>
		<updated>2013-04-13T10:03:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Schematic */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Schematic ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;imagemap&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Image:NURDspace_netwerk.png|600px|Netwerkkaart&lt;br /&gt;
rect 710 449 804 577 [[NURDServer]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 611 455 707 571 [[SpaceCam]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 531 454 601 566 [[Dell_Optiplex_GX270|vjdeb]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 535 173 624 309 [[Swampcastle]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 442 173 536 294 [[Buffalo]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 365 169 439 283 [[Nexia_PM]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 14 364 116 475 [[Dockstar]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 136 365 207 472 [[LANbox]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 123 484 215 603 [[Dmxlampen]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 1 478 111 581 [[Infra#Printing|HP Deskjet 5740]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 851 450 929 542 [[Gamepc]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 911 0 1016 141 [[Nurdspace.nl]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 619 84 716 173 [[Cisco800series]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 33 23 122 150 [[E4200]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 14 152 133 273 [[WRT54GSv4]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 246 161 353 294 [[NURDserver_v2|proxmox1]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 501 595 637 706 [[PrinterPC]]&lt;br /&gt;
rect 391 587 478 697 [[3D_Printer_0]]&lt;br /&gt;
default [[File:NURDspace_netwerk.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
desc none&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/imagemap&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Which hosts are online? ==&lt;br /&gt;
Below is an iframe showing all responding hosts. It might take a few secs to load.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#widget:Iframe&lt;br /&gt;
|url=http://space.nurdspace.nl/pingscan.php&lt;br /&gt;
|height=400&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
== WiFi ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Spacenet]] on the [[E4200]] (SSID&#039;s SpaceNet-2.4 and SpaceNet-5)&lt;br /&gt;
* NURDspace-2.4 on the [[WRT54GSv4]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both routers are in bridged mode, so they offer full functionality to access the dockstar for mpd control etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Web ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Wiki]]&lt;br /&gt;
** Hosting ([[User:The_Niz|Niz]] and internals [[User:The_Niz|Niz]]/[[User:buZz|buZz]])&lt;br /&gt;
* Mail&lt;br /&gt;
** Mailinglist ([[User:r3boot|r3boot]]) http://lists.nurdspace.nl/, nurds [at] nurdspace.nl&lt;br /&gt;
** Mail aliases @nurdspace.nl ([[User:r3boot|r3boot]])&lt;br /&gt;
* Domain nurdspace.nl ([[User:The_Niz|The_Niz]] for DNS requests)&lt;br /&gt;
* Twitter [https://twitter.com/NURDspace @NURDspace] ([[User:Spider|Spider]], but [[User:FwD|FwD]] guessed the password too)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Network ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 48p gbit 3Com switch ([[User:R3boot|r3boot]])&lt;br /&gt;
* Intel Bladecenter with 14 blades; dual-xeons, 2~4GB ram ([[User:R3boot|r3boot]])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Environment ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Multi-loop alarm central with keypad and a red flashing alarm light (no loop components)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Printing ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you are at the NURDspace network you can print @ the [[Dockstar]]&lt;br /&gt;
* socket://dockstar.nurdspace.lan:9100.&lt;br /&gt;
* Model HP Deskjet 5740.&lt;br /&gt;
* Under linux you can use hpijs driver for Deskjet 5700, Android&#039;s Printbot app can also be used&lt;br /&gt;
* Use AppSocket/HP JetDirect&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is now also a networked Brother HL-1470N thanks to Psy0rz&lt;br /&gt;
* socket://192.168.1.166:9100&lt;br /&gt;
* should just autodetect in cups :P&lt;br /&gt;
* Some problem in paper feed :&amp;lt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Services ==&lt;br /&gt;
* MPD running on [[Dockstar]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Subversion running on [[NURDServer]]. Repository &#039;nurdspace&#039; externally available on svn://nurdspace.tk/nurdspace or internally on svn://nurdserver/nurdspace&lt;br /&gt;
* Proxmox virtualisation on [[NURDserver_v2]] and [[Dell_PowerEdge_R200_Server]]&lt;br /&gt;
* LDAP and NFS homedirs on [[NURDserver_v2#nurdservices|nurdservices]].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2203</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2203"/>
		<updated>2013-03-30T20:03:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Software */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 IC!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The arsa software which reads the data from the nurduino from usb and displays it on a computer. See below for installation details.&lt;br /&gt;
* java jre&lt;br /&gt;
* librxtx-java&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the IC with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the IC ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the ic. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software (see below). The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Arsa software ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Arsa (arduino radio spectrum analyser) is a java application that reads the usb port data from the Nurduino and displays a bar graph with the signal strenght. It displays both the maximum since you started it, and the current signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can download the most recent version on [http://github.com/dolfandringa/arsa/tree/master/target]. Download the arsa-&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;-jar-with-dependencies.jar file. You can start it with java. Currently it only works on Linux and assumes the Nurduino is available as /dev/ttyUSB0 (default on Debian and it&#039;s derivatives like Ubuntu). It also requires the librxtxSerial.so.&lt;br /&gt;
You can start the file (assuming you have java and librxtx-java installed) with:&lt;br /&gt;
 LD_LIBRARY_PATH=/usr/lib/jni/ java -jar arsa-&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;-jar-with-dependencies.jar&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2202</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2202"/>
		<updated>2013-03-30T20:02:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Programming the IC */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 IC!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The arsa software which reads the data from the nurduino from usb and displays it on a computer. See below for installation details.&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the IC with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the IC ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the ic. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software (see below). The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Arsa software ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Arsa (arduino radio spectrum analyser) is a java application that reads the usb port data from the Nurduino and displays a bar graph with the signal strenght. It displays both the maximum since you started it, and the current signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can download the most recent version on [http://github.com/dolfandringa/arsa/tree/master/target]. Download the arsa-&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;-jar-with-dependencies.jar file. You can start it with java. Currently it only works on Linux and assumes the Nurduino is available as /dev/ttyUSB0 (default on Debian and it&#039;s derivatives like Ubuntu). It also requires the librxtxSerial.so.&lt;br /&gt;
You can start the file (assuming you have java and librxtx-java installed) with:&lt;br /&gt;
 LD_LIBRARY_PATH=/usr/lib/jni/ java -jar arsa-&amp;lt;version&amp;gt;-jar-with-dependencies.jar&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2201</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2201"/>
		<updated>2013-03-30T19:53:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Software */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 IC!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The arsa software which reads the data from the nurduino from usb and displays it on a computer. See below for installation details.&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the IC with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the IC ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the ic. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software. The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Expedits&amp;diff=2185</id>
		<title>Expedits</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Expedits&amp;diff=2185"/>
		<updated>2013-03-28T17:45:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryOwner=Space&lt;br /&gt;
|InventoryStatus=Working and ready for use&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
These are the two black Ikea Expedit cupboards in the space, they have been labelled and this is an attempt to make a searchable index of the contents.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A lot of the sections have labelled boxes in them, or a clear theme for the contents. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;text-align: center;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!  !! A !! B !! C !! D !!  !! E !! F !! G !! H&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Smartcards voor flok, [[Toshiba Portege 3010CT]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Two (big) RC cars&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
| PSUs (ATX &amp;amp; AT)&lt;br /&gt;
| Harddisks, optical &amp;amp; floppy drives&lt;br /&gt;
| RAM, Barcode scanner, Motorola MC3090 &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! 2&lt;br /&gt;
| Flatcables, misc cables&lt;br /&gt;
| Antistatic &amp;amp; Bubblewrap&lt;br /&gt;
| [[Motorola SURFboard SBV5120E Cable Modem|Motorola Cable Modem]],[[Chumby Classic]]&lt;br /&gt;
| Mice , SATA &amp;amp; Rounded PATA cables&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
| [[FPGA_boards|FPGA boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
| NICS, network gear&lt;br /&gt;
| PCMCIA, PC-Cards  CPUs&lt;br /&gt;
| [[User:Inytar|inytar]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! 3&lt;br /&gt;
| Cameras&lt;br /&gt;
| Speakers&lt;br /&gt;
| Accu/Battery &amp;amp; chargers, [[K&#039;Nex]]&lt;br /&gt;
| My first Sonys&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
| Sensory input (kinect, p5 glove, indycam)&lt;br /&gt;
| 4in3module, WL500G,PSUs (ATX &amp;amp; AT)&lt;br /&gt;
| AMX, versterker&lt;br /&gt;
| Etching gear&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! 4&lt;br /&gt;
| USB cables&lt;br /&gt;
| Pruts, parts for grabs&lt;br /&gt;
| Adapters&lt;br /&gt;
| Assorted cables&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
| Videocards&lt;br /&gt;
| Fakeroomba, WinCE laptop, [[Scanner]]&lt;br /&gt;
| TFT&lt;br /&gt;
| [[User:Inytar|inytar]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2183</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2183"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T22:55:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Kit components */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 IC!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the IC with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the IC ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the ic. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software. The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2182</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2182"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T22:55:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Attention (errata) */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 IC!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the ICU with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the IC ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the ic. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software. The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2181</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2181"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T22:54:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Programming the IC */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the ICU with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the IC ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the ic. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software. The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2180</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2180"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T22:54:40Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Programming the IC */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the ICU with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the IC ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the icu. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software. The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2179</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2179"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T22:53:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Programming the ICU */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the ICU with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the ICU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the icu. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software. The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px|center]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2178</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2178"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T22:53:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Programming the ICU */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the ICU with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the ICU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the icu. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably use /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you installed the arduino programming environment, and configured (maybe even loaded a standard blink sketch to test if uploading works) you can load the correct program to the board. The sketch (program) is listed at the top under [#Software]. Download the file to your sketchbook folder in your documents folder. After that you can find it back in the Arduino programming environment under file-&amp;gt;Sketchbook.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Push and hold the reset button on the Nurduino, klik the upload button on the arduino IDE (arrow to the right) and release the reset button after a fraction of a second (before the arduino IDE says uploading). After that, the software should be loaded on the chip. The LED should now start flashing regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now connect the nurduino to your computer using the FTDI friend or FTDI cable (make sure you connect it correctly, black wire at the GND pin) to the board and your computer, and start the Arsa software. The Arsa software should now show the signal strength like in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg|x400px]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg&amp;diff=2177</id>
		<title>File:Nurduino working with software.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:Nurduino_working_with_software.jpg&amp;diff=2177"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T22:52:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:70314779_5_4fzp.jpeg&amp;diff=2176</id>
		<title>File:70314779 5 4fzp.jpeg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:70314779_5_4fzp.jpeg&amp;diff=2176"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T22:36:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: SmokeyD moved page File:70314779 5 4fzp.jpeg to File:Profzon in blik.jpg&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;#REDIRECT [[File:Profzon in blik.jpg]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:Profzon_in_blik.jpg&amp;diff=2175</id>
		<title>File:Profzon in blik.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:Profzon_in_blik.jpg&amp;diff=2175"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T22:36:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: SmokeyD moved page File:70314779 5 4fzp.jpeg to File:Profzon in blik.jpg&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2172</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2172"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T00:24:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Kit components */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed. Align the notch at the top of the ICU with the notch of the socket. || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 Align the notch of the socket, with the notch drawn on the board. || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the ICU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the icu. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably choose /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2171</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2171"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T00:23:05Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Kit components */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || push it in the socket IC3. No soldering needed || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A four pin header  || JP2 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 28pin socket for ATmega328  || IC3 || [[File:Ic_socket.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the ICU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the icu. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably choose /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2169</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2169"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T00:19:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || IC3 || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Programming the ICU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the icu. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/lesson1.html good tutorial on arduino programming] can be found with [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=tutorials Lady Ada]. Use the following settings instead of what is listed there.&lt;br /&gt;
For the board choose &amp;quot;Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
For the port on linux you might probably choose /dev/ttyUSB0 on Ubuntu/Debian, or equivalent on other distributions.&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows, see [http://learn.adafruit.com/ftdi-friend/installing-ftdi-drivers Lady Ada&#039;s tutorial] for installing the drivers.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2167</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2167"/>
		<updated>2013-03-27T00:04:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Putting it together */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (was your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || IC3 || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the icu. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Arduino_Radio_Spectrum_Analyzer_prototype_on_a_breadboard&amp;diff=2166</id>
		<title>Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Arduino_Radio_Spectrum_Analyzer_prototype_on_a_breadboard&amp;diff=2166"/>
		<updated>2013-03-26T23:58:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Programming, Electronics, Soldering&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Fun&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectParticipants=SmokeyD&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
I am building a Radio Spectrum Analyzer which measures signal strenght in the 2.4GHz band, using a CYWM6935 module and Atmega 328 MCU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Code is available on https://github.com/dolfandringa/arsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I want to set it up in several steps:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Setting up an Arduino on a breadboard==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I first setup an [[Arduino_on_a_breadboard|arduino on a breadboard]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Connecting the CYWM6935==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before you do anything with the Radio board, you need it&#039;s datasheet. The datasheet not only tells you what each pin means, but also its operating voltage, current usage, exact method of communication, etc. The more you understand of this stuff, the more you will appreciate the datasheet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case you actually need two datasheets. One is the one for the [http://www.cypress.com/?docID=30630|CYWM6935 module]. But this module is powered by a CYWMUSB6935 chip, so the [datasheet for the CYWMUSB6935 chip will tell you more, especially on page 25 about DC characteristics (power usage, voltage, etc).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In those datasheets you can find that the MCU can communicate to the radio board using the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) Bus. This is a smart way for controlling peripheral modules/circuitry/etc from an MCU. You can read more of how it works on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_Peripheral_Interface.  There is one snag here though. The breadboard and MCU run at 5V. The CYWM6935 runs at 3.3V though. So if you were to wire things up directly, you will blow up your radio module. This is the case both for the direct power supply to the radio module, but also for the SPI bus. So all voltages to the radio module need to be changed to 3.3V. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the SPI you can use a simple voltage divider. I had to read up on what this was after someone told me to use one. I can very much recommend [http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Electronics-Inventors-2-E/dp/0071452818?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1359586555|the (e)book Practical Electronics for Inventors by Paul Scherz]. It is a good book that explains electronics theory well, and gives you enoug examples to see if you really understand what is explained. For the impatient though: a voltage divider divides the input voltage over two resistors, where part of the voltage goes to ground, and the other part is used as a (lower) output voltage, to a next part of the circuit. The ratio between the two resistors determines the output voltage. For the SPI Bus, I used a 2.2kOhm resistor, followed by a 1kOhm resistor. Between these two, there is a wire which provides the intermediate voltage of 3.4V to the radio module. This is where those resistors were for that you may have seen on the previous pictures. In the picture below you also see them. We&#039;ll hook them up later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:5.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture above and the pictures below you see the connector that I used to hook up the breadboard to the CYWM6935 module. See [#cable_hack] for the exact way I hooked it up. For now it is important to notice the pin numbers on the connector. These are the pin numbers of the radio module, as specified in the datasheet. The order of the pins on the connector is a bit odd. The [#cable hack] part explains why, but they are the correct pin numbers from the datasheet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First we&#039;ll hook up the ground (pins 1 and 9), and a PULLUP resistor to pin 10 (poweroff) to prevent the board from powering off unexpectedly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:7.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:8.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:9.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:10.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:11.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:12.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:13.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Cable hack ===&lt;br /&gt;
To connect the CYWM6935 module to the breadboard, I created my own cable. I found a 2.5&amp;quot; Harddisk adaptor plug, which fortunately has pins on one side with the spacing for flat cables like floppydisk cables, and on the other side has holes with a smaller spacing, exactly the size of the CYWM6935. Using this plug, a (cut-up floppy disk) flatcable, some simple PCB and a few jumpers, I soldered something together that allowed me to connect the radio module to the breadboard.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I split a floppy cable that was lying around, so it had 10 wires left. On one side I left the connector in place. On the other side I cut off the connector and stripped the wires.&lt;br /&gt;
I soldered each of these free wires to a PCB. On each of the lanes for these wires, a jumper pin was soldered, so I ended up with a 10-pin connector which fits the breadboard. There is one thing you should know about this connection (and could be done better). If you connect the wires this way, the order of the pins on the breadboard correspond to the CYWM6935 pins in a weird order. Their order is: 2,1,4,3,6,5,8,7,10,9. If you want the pins on the breadboard side, to correspond to the CYWMUSB6935 module in the correct order, you should twist around each pair of wires.&lt;br /&gt;
This is how the cable looks now.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:cywm6935_connector_cable.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connecting this plug to it, you can plug in the CYWM6935 module.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:connector_cable_with_cywm6935.jpg|none|600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Programming the Atmega328==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Creating desktop software for visualization==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I chose to create a Java GUI using JFreeChart to read the data from the Arduino using an FTDI cable on a serial port (or actually USB) and visualize that in the GUI. The program can be found on [https://github.com/dolfandringa/arsa Github].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a screenshot from the app. It allows you to reset the maxima by clicking the button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Arsa_screenshot.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Assemble everything on a custom PCB==&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2165</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2165"/>
		<updated>2013-03-26T23:43:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Attention (errata) ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don&#039;t need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (was your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || IC3 || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2164</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2164"/>
		<updated>2013-03-26T23:39:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Kit components */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (was your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! amount !! Name !! Location !! Picture &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || IC3 || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board || in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) || [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V || LD1117V || [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) || S2 || [[File:pushbutton.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header || SV4 ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header || SV3 || [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || JP1 || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  || J1 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor || C1&amp;amp;C2 || [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor || C3&amp;amp;C5 || [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) || The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole || [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  R15&amp;amp;R16 || [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor || R12&amp;amp;R13&amp;amp;R14 || [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor || R9&amp;amp;R10&amp;amp;R11 || [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor || LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator || Y1 || [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:Pushbutton.jpg&amp;diff=2162</id>
		<title>File:Pushbutton.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:Pushbutton.jpg&amp;diff=2162"/>
		<updated>2013-03-26T23:20:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2160</id>
		<title>Nurduino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=Nurduino&amp;diff=2160"/>
		<updated>2013-03-26T23:00:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: /* Kit components */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Project&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectSkills=Electronics, &lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectStatus=Active&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectNiche=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
|ProjectPurpose=Use in other project&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nurduino.jpg|x400px|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
Nurduino is our very own [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino arduino] clone. It is the evolution of the [[Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard]] project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how&#039;s and why&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What do I need ==&lt;br /&gt;
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.&lt;br /&gt;
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (was your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit components ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || Atmega328PU IC || [[File:atmega328.jpg|x150px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || CYWM6935 breakout board ||  [[File:cywm6935.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V ||  [[File:LD1117v33.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || push button (always off) ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 5 pin female header ||  [[File:5pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 6 pin female header ||  [[File:6pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 12 pin female header || [[File:12pin_header.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers)  ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 18pF ceramic disc capacitor ||  [[File:18pF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 100nF ceramic capacitor ||  [[File:100nF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) ||  [[File:10uF.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2x || 10KOhm resistor ||  [[File:10k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 1KOhm resistor ||  [[File:1k.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3x || 2.2KOhm resistor ||  [[File:2k2.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor ||  [[File:led.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1x || 16MHz crystal oscillator ||  [[File:crystal.jpg|x150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
* To program the atmega chip, you need [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/nurduino_spectrum_analyzer.ino this sketch].&lt;br /&gt;
* The full schematic and pcb design of the Nurduino can be found [http://nurdspace.tk/~smokeyd/2.4GHz_radio_analyzer.zip in this zipfile].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Putting it together ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this is your first time soldering: don&#039;t worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch Altman], who is a great teacher and the co-author of [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is easy].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:2200k.jpg&amp;diff=2159</id>
		<title>File:2200k.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://nurdspace.nl/index.php?title=File:2200k.jpg&amp;diff=2159"/>
		<updated>2013-03-26T22:59:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Smokeyd: SmokeyD moved page File:2200k.jpg to File:2k2.jpg&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;#REDIRECT [[File:2k2.jpg]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Smokeyd</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>