NurdNode: Difference between revisions

From NURDspace
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* #28 has no address at all - all 0's.
* #28 has no address at all - all 0's.
** #28 - R23 short, R20, R10 short.
** #28 - R23 short, R20, R10 short.
* #27's lowest address pin is not working.
* #27's lowest address pin is not working.
** #27 R24 is not connected
** #27 <s>R24 is not connected</s> R24 has been connected
**
* #17's green is shorted and red is disconnected.
* #17's green is shorted and red is disconnected.
** #17 - T1 and T5 shorted
** #17 - T1 and T5 shorted

Revision as of 20:36, 28 July 2015

NurdNode
Pinout protonode.png
Participants
Skills Electronics, Programming
Status Planning
Niche Electronics
Purpose Fun
Tool No
Location
Cost
Tool category

NurdNode

Pinout protonode.png {{#if:No | [[Tool Owner::{{{ProjectParticipants}}} | }} {{#if:No | [[Tool Cost:: | }}

Description

The goal is to build wireless nodes that will control a bunch of LED's for cool lighting effects. The ultimate cool is to build enough, so we can put them in the connector pieces of our geodesic dome

Hardware design considerations

1 node will draw around 1A in current. For 31 nodes, this is obvisouly 31A in current at 5V, making the total power consumption 155W at full load. The current proposition is to bundle the power and signal lines into one cable, and run them in an upward spiraling fashion across each node, connecting them serially. The benefit of this setup is that it allows for easy addressing and it's simple. However, running 31A through a single power line requires a big, heavy and expensive cable.

The length of the power lines is determined at 60m. According to this site [1], at 3% acceptable loss, and using 5V at 31A the cable crossection is 16m2. A ballpark price estimate using Eijlander as supplier is roughly 330 euro.

An alternative would be to devide the power distribution into several groups. The upside is that we can get away with thinner cables, but we may require longer cables.

Yet another alternative is to raise the voltage of the grid to 12+V. This means we may use thinner power lines and still use the serial wiring setup. However, each node will have to be equipped with a switching power source to keep power dissipation at its lowest. This circuit will come at an extra cost, and having 31 nodes, this could escalate quickly.

(Why not elevate voltage a lot more, say 48V? Would reduce the current by an order of magnitude without adding more parts. Talloak (talk) 00:44, 4 May 2015 (CEST) )


Pinout of prototype

Parts selection

IRL540 for power led stages?

TODO

Hardware

  • Calulate total length of cable required to connect all nodes
  • Calculate price of power lines
  • Design power circuit
  • Design LED circuit (for optional leds)
  • Design power stage for 3W led
  • Select appropriate through-hole parts for breadboarding
  • Order thru-hole parts
  • Build thingamagic on breadboard
  • Select appropriate SMD parts for the final device.
    • Select decoupling caps
    • Select connectors
    • Select N-channel MOSFET
  • Design board
  • Assemble BOM
  • Determine pinout of PSU
  • Create pinout of prototype node
  • Build first prototype
  • Test first prototype
  • Test out smaller FET as replacement for the fat bastards
  • Fix design mistakes
  • Finalise design
  • Update BOM
  • Build device that will zero in the Servo's
  • Build device that tests the channels of the LED separately.
  • Assemble 35 Pro mini's
  • Label 35 pcb's with numbers 1-100 AFTER they have been in the oven ;)
  • Program 35 Pro mini's with firmware.
  • Calibrate 35 PSU's
  • Cut 100 heatsinks
  • Drill 100 heatsinks
  • Solder 35 LEDs to jumper wire in the following order +RGB
  • Test channels of 35 LEDs
  • Stick 35 LEDs to heatsinks
  • Glue 35 heatsink + LED combination to servo arm.
  • Glue 35 lenses to LEDs
  • Pick and place 100 nodes
  • Solder through hole parts to 35 nodes
  • Zero-in servo's of 35 nodes
  • Screw servoarm + heatsink + led to servo.
  • Set address of 31 nodes
  • Test address of 31 nodes by hooking it up to the DMX bus and try to talk to it using its address
  • Stick Pro-mini on 35 nodes
  • Solder calibrated PSU on 35 nodes
  • Create building instructions
  • Test 65 board for shorts and open connections
  • Assemble 65 kits
  • Provide documentation for kits

Cabling

  • Determine guage of power cables
  • Determine which signal wires to use
  • Order more molex connectors
  • Get wires at ijlander, or order
  • Build cable
Total cable length based on 10M dome = 31 - 1 * 2m = 60m
1mm2 stereo cable will be used for the supply of power
Fancy sensor cable is used for transport of signal

Ordering

  • 100 pcs 3W Led
  • 100 pcs PSU
  • 100 Pro mini's
  • 200 Servos
  • 100 Lenses
  • 110 Jumper cables for soldering to LED
  • 3x solder paste
  • Prototype Stencil
  • Prototype PCB's
  • Enough material for prototypes
  • Metal framed stencil for final design
  • Final PCB's
  • More molex connectors
  • Enough materials for final nodes
  • Adhesive for LEDs
  • Extra transmitter chips (after validation)

Software

  • Create some spiffy code to make the blinkenlichten go blink blink.
  • Design standalone mode
  • Change firmware so pin 1 is used to toggle DMX and standalone mode
  • Review firmware
  • Fix issues
  • Mark firmware as final
  • Create a C&C lib that organises the nodes and takes care of the comms between the nodes and the higher level software. I'm thinking REST API for the higher level stuff and UDP multicast for the lower end. Suggestions welcome.
  • Find a tool (better yet DIY) a tool that allows you to define an animation in 3D and project it on the geodome.

Testing

  • #19's power supply just stopped working.
    • #19 - power is shorted to ground somewhere on the board. Might be on the PSU.
    • Additional investigation required. Failure is generally caused by a high current, which would indicate a short on the board.
    • T2 shorted - fixed
  • #16 looks to have a blown power converter.
    • Possible short between GND and PWR
  • #5's Green channel looks funny from that tesy
    • #5 - Either R4 or R8 is a problem
  • #7's green is shorted
    • T4 shorted
  • #8 has a shorted green
    • #8 - T5 is shorted
  • #15 has an addressing problem with the middle pin.
    • #15 is missing R10
  • #10 has the same addressng problem
    • #10: DIP #4 is connected to 5V
    • There is a short under the 3.9k resistor on dip 4 on #10
  • #28 has no address at all - all 0's.
    • #28 - R23 short, R20, R10 short.
  • #27's lowest address pin is not working.
    • #27 R24 is not connected R24 has been connected
  • #17's green is shorted and red is disconnected.
    • #17 - T1 and T5 shorted
  • #14's address is all 0's.
    • Possible short under R20
    • Possible disconnect

11 / 35 failures

Website

Maybe set up nice website?

Links