Nurduino: Difference between revisions

From NURDspace
Line 15: Line 15:
== What do I need ==
== What do I need ==
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.
* A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (was your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).
* Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 FTDI cable] or [http://www.adafruit.com/products/284 FTDI friend] (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.



Revision as of 01:05, 27 March 2013

NURDspace Project
link=File:{{{Name}}}.jpg
Participants
Skills
Status
Niche
Purpose
Tool
Location
Cost
Tool category

{{{Name}}}Property "Tool Name" (as page type) with input value "{{{Name}}}" contains invalid characters or is incomplete and therefore can cause unexpected results during a query or annotation process. Property "Tool Image" (as page type) with input value "File:{{{Picture}}}" contains invalid characters or is incomplete and therefore can cause unexpected results during a query or annotation process. {{{Picture}}} {{#if:{{{Tool}}} | [[Tool Owner::{{{ProjectParticipants}}} | }} {{#if:{{{Tool}}} | [[Tool Cost::{{{Cost}}} | }}

Nurduino.jpg

Nurduino is our very own arduino clone. It is the evolution of the Arduino Radio Spectrum Analyzer prototype on a breadboard project. In that project I built a prototype of the Nurduino, and tried to share the how's and why's. In this page I will make a shorted description of how to build the Nurduino kit, and use it as a 2.4GHz Radio Analyzer.

Attention (errata)

  • At the LED1 location on the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a + sign. This is actually the GND hole. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED.
  • In the PCB design, a mistake has been made by forgetting a resistor for the LED. We therefore soldered a 1k resistor to the + leg of the LED. For those who buy the kit complete, you receive a pre-assembled LED, so you don't need to worry. Others: please attach the resistor to the LED or you could burn out not only your LED but also your Atmega328 ICU!

What do I need

  • A soldering iron (including sponge and stand). Use one that is accurate with a good tip. Although the pcb is setup with a lot of space there are a few spots where accuracy is required. Under €50 there are good options available.
  • Solder. I use 0.7mm (more accurate then 1mm) with a resin core, containing lead (wash your hands and try not to breathe the fumes).
  • FTDI cable or FTDI friend (and micro usb cable) to connect the board to the usb port.

Software

Kit components

amount Name Location Picture
1x Atmega328PU IC IC3 Atmega328.jpg
1x CYWM6935 breakout board in JP1, orientation inside board (see picture above) Cywm6935.jpg
1x LD1117V33 Voltage regulater from 5 (and more) to 3.3V LD1117V LD1117v33.jpg
1x push button (always off) S2 Pushbutton.jpg
2x 5 pin female header SV4 5pin header.jpg
1x 6 pin female header SV3 6pin header.jpg
1x 12 pin female header JP1 12pin header.jpg
1x A six pin header (or actually, two 3pin jumpers) J1
2x 18pF ceramic disc capacitor C1&C2 18pF.jpg
2x 100nF ceramic capacitor C3&C5 100nF.jpg
2x 10uF electrolytic capacitor (elco) The elco places (circles). The oriëntation is important. The short leg of the elco is the minus, and the elco on the pcb has a minus sign at one hole 10uF.jpg
2x 10KOhm resistor R15&R16 10k.jpg
1x 1KOhm resistor R12&R13&R14 1k.jpg
3x 2.2KOhm resistor R9&R10&R11 2k2.jpg
1x 5mm red LED with integrated 1KOhm resistor LED1. The oriëntation is important. The long leg on the LED is the + leg. ATTENTION!!! On the PCB the wrong hole is marked with a +. The other hole should contain the + leg of the LED. Led.jpg
1x 16MHz crystal oscillator Y1 Crystal.jpg

Putting it together

If this is your first time soldering: don't worry, it is actually not hard. I learnt it from Mitch Altman, who is a great teacher and the co-author of Soldering is easy.

The PCB has markings for each specific component. The component table above contains these locations. The order in which you solder is not really important, apart from making it as easy as possible to reach each component while soldering. I suggest you start with the smaller resistors, capacitors and crystal. Then the headers and socket, larger capacitors and voltage regulator. The LED and pushbutton you can do whenever you feel like it. Use the picture above as a guide.

If you soldered everything correctly, it is time to program the icu. Hook up the FTDI cable or FTDI friend and usb cable. It is important you have the oriëntation of the FTDI cable/friend correct. The pins on the board are marked. The GND pin should connect to the black wire on the FTDI cable. The VCC pin should connect to the red wire. This is really important, else you might fry the whole pcb.